_tents by size
The one person tent is for backpacking. Unless you can count on low amounts rain and missions/objectives are not time critical(because if you have schedule or example, a one man tent will make camp logistics more difficult) it wont be a good basecamp. If you had a tarp material or overhang then yeah it would work for many purposes as long as heating the tent isnt needed. One man tents donot offer enpugh room for heat.
2 man tents is like a backpackers extended trip, minimalist shelter. You can now use a heater, change clothes easier, go through a compartmentalized backpack(cbag would need ditty bags throughout and/or some extra time to place things out; not a lot of room in a 2p). If you have to hole up for a day you have some arm space.
3 person tents begin to accommodate an outfitter grade camp. You could empty the tent, take a a shower in it with heat, and then poke a small hole in the floor and drain the water. Luxury. Or you could take a shit in a 20 gallon bag laid on the floor and not completely breathe it in. Or you could cook. With some tarp or polyester fleece(protects another fabric from pokes, insulates, weather resistant) a 4 season dome tent can be given insulation. Toss a tarp over the fleece and you have a waterproof barrier with no siloxane spray needed.
4 person tents start to have ceiling heights that offer more peace and physical movement. Not until 6 person is their enough head room for 6' individuals to stand. 4p size is compact but a serious outfitter camp awaits for the cost of maybe 10-15 more pounds than a 1p tent. Get one with some ceiling height and a chair. Or use a cot as a table(dont sleep on cots) in the tent to offer more storage and protection from moisture.
When you stop and think of what useable area a forest might offer, at the 6 person size, in parts of american forest, the 6 person size is on the big end of what you can reliably find good pitching space for. Bigger than this, obatacles or too much slope are more common. The 6p size will use the btu off a propane ceramic block and single burner stove down to 10 degrees if its bagged pretty well. If the person can insulate between a double wall dome tent(common dome tent will full fly, perferably zipshutable innertent) a 6p would offer more even heating, or a fan.
_types of structures and materials
Fiberglass poles ought to be used if available. They can be very durable and repair easy as the coresponding tent ofter takes a few sizes of diameter and they are abundant.
Aluminum poles get made by dac and easton often. They are engineered all pretty well. Sometimes poles can be doubled up(if you have extra) and yeild a more durable structure. Example: 6 person coleman tent(cheap) could get doubled poles and properly guyed out and then covered with poly film and then have its vents tuned to proper size for the weather and heating available.
The easton syclone poles are more durable than aluminum but aluminum will hold more heavy snow without bending, before it snaps.
Id be on the lookout for proprietary hubs that might be ireplaceable, the ferrules sometimes get lose. The red threadlock should be better than blue. If you just Had to take the ferrule off you should be able to heat and cool the pole and bust the adhesive. Threadlock or similar is somthing to store next to seamsealer for some.
One other pole,, the straight pole. For center pole tents. You can use a stick of wood. Or trekking poles. Or even omit the pole and hang the tent from a tree! How do y'all like the sound of that?
Cabelas makes a outback lodge 6p. Nice center pole tent. This tent packed with no center pole would make a fine solution for many individuals.
_other ways of doing a shelter
Staple wacker and polyfilm. Rope or even steel wire. Small wood saw to cut branches to make a frame. Fleece can make a nice door if you overlap it.
Knowing how to sew and having usable sewing gear /not shit like tiny needles is very handy. Contact cement, gorrila tape, scissors are handy.
Hanging a rope from two trees can hold a tarp and then panels can be stiched to it. A curved srwing needle with allow you to sew with only access to one side of the material sewn.
Siloxane waterproof your tent before you use it. Nylon tents dont do sun. Dont hammock camp in cold weather its logistically stupid, but comfortable if acomplished.
Denatured alcohol for 2-3p. Propane for 4-6. Consider wood for larger.
Drafts and wind will kill your heat. You want to be in bag almost with your heater with just enough draft so that your heater doesn't shut off from too much water vapor in the air from the heat kicking it up. You can even have a little more draft than that and kick moisture out of the tent. Open your tent as much as feasable when you leave to waft out as much moisture though. Often people shut tents and miss out on the opourtunity to dehumidify for free.
Foam mats are superior. Inflatable stuff is not worth my time and dont recomend it.
Cots are for sitting, resting and holding stuff. Like a couch.
Buckets are good for pissing but shiting is better done squating. Keep bleach around. Purell is shit if you like god knows what massaged into your hands only to alter your skins flora and seep into your bloodstream go ahead.
Locating heavy ass flat stuff to use as camp furniture is great. For resting pots, table surfaces.
Take a rubbermaid tote and cut a semicircle out so when its upside down access to its interior is there.
Same rectangle sleeping bags can be zipped together to make a wide bag.
_uv and lifetime expectations
For 75d polyester under a simple wooded canopy on d.c. latutude you have 2-3years until its done.
For nylon maybe one and a half years.
Look for branches or trees that could fall.
Pitch the tent correctly and consider the tension upon different tent peices. Guy it out and check tension especially before/after high wind.
Have repair kit ready to mend effectively.