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[–] NewFatMike 0 points 3 points (+3|-0) ago  (edited ago)

I think I can help!

First temperature control: higher wattage is correlative to more heat, but that is not necessarily the case. For instance, really fast wicking action and wide airflow can contribute to relatively low temperatures at higher wattage because both wicking and airflow cool down the coils.

Most temperature control today is really temperature limiting. The mod first reads the resistance of the coil at room temperature to get a baseline. Resistance changes with heat* and so by reading how much the resistance is changing, the chip can estimate what temperature the coil is. Once the coil is at the temperature to which you've set the limit, then it stops delivering power.

Then within temperature control you can also adjust wattage. Wattage in this case is going to contribute to how fast you're going to get to that temperature limit. The higher the wattage, the faster it's going to rise in temperature.

Temperature control is important for two reasons:

1) It's going to limit potentially harmful chemicals generated by the components of e-liquid breaking down at high temperatures (e.g. if VG gets too hot, then it can produce formaldehyde**).

2) It's going to increase the life expectancy of coils. If you set your temperature low enough (i.e. below 400* F), then you can essentially "dry burn" old flavors off cotton and pop in your new one with little to no carry over. No singed cotton will also contribute to better flavor longer.

Temperature control is nice because it lets you experiment with flavors in a totally new way! Some people may prefer some flavors at cooler temps than others, or some flavors may be hidden at different temps, so having effective control over that is nice. That said, current temperature control technology isn't quite in a place to facilitate that (since it's temperature limiting rather than temperature controlling).

So what this really gives you is just another avenue of controlling for your preference rather than any one thing necessarily being better than the other.

*With some wires faster than others. That's why most temperature control these days uses nickel and titanium wire.

**So far, formaldehyde generation hasn't really been a concern - the studies that have found it found it in such scenarios that any vaper would immediately retch.

Moving on!

Set your output levels to your preference - outside of a few safety concerns there isn't a "right" way to vape. It gives you options, and that's the whole thing! If you like your tank at 7 watts instead of 17 watts, then that's fine! There's a big push towards MOAR POWAR, MOAR CLOWDZ that appeals to a lot of people, but isn't for everyone. I think Zen over at House of Hybrids really hits it with this blog post (check it out under the "Cure for the Common Clone" ad). I go back to that really frequently to kind of recenter myself with regards to what the industry is doing.

Finally, some things that you may be missing out on with your current mod - not necessarily by virtue of it being 20W, but rather by virtue of it being the MVP20W - are:

1) More accurate resistance readings (a lot of mods these days read down to the hundredths of an ohm, which isn't really for the kind of thing the 20W is designed for).

2) Access to a newer generation of tanks. The MVP 20W will only fire down to about 1 ohm, which is great for 99% of all the tanks out there, but if you wanted to experiment with like a Kanger Subtank Mini, then you would have to make sure that you have the 1.2 ohm coils, or else they won't work. A lot of other tanks like the Innokin iSub series, Atlantis, Herakles, etc. will not work on there because their coils are only available in "sub ohm" (where resistance is lower than 1 ohm) configurations.

3) More detailed information overall. The basic screen on the MVP20W is navigable to a lot of information that is available at a glance on the higher resolution mods available these days (exact battery level, resistance, applied voltage, etc.), but none of that is necessarily critical to the vaping experience, as the success of the eGo style battery shows.

In short, you're not missing much except maybe some headroom to experiment with some tanks that require higher output. Temperature control is muy bueno, but still in its infancy so you're not missing super much at the moment. Set your settings to your preference!

And a final note, if you check out Zen's blog post from December of last year, and think about the "quitter" vs the "vaper", it delivers a lot of context for some of the goods that are available in the high end that don't necessarily "outperform" equipment at the lower end (clouds-wise at least).

Anyway, hope that's helpful!

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[–] Targren [S] 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 

Thank you, that did help immensely.

I already knew that the MVP would cut me off from sub-ohm attys, but figured I'd be okay with that for quite awhile yet. I'm thinking that, maybe around the end of the year, I'll pick up one of the new Disruptors, if they turn out as well as the prototype reviews have made them out to be, but for now I'm mostly looking at ways to solve a few minor "annoyances" - flooding my coils (pumping up the wattage for a couple of "no pull burns" helps with that about half the time), the cost of replacing coils, and wanting to try new flavors without having to drain my tank with a syringe to keep from wasting whatever's in there (Apparently, I'm a juice whore) .

I'm hoping to deal with the latter two by ordering a Velocity clone from FT (I just have to wait for FT shipping...) so that I can drip a new flavor and get practice building coils. Once I've got that down, I might switch to an RTA...

So this information was a lot of help (and that blog post was an interesting read). Other than treating juice like they're freakin' pokemon, I think I'm still keeping it mostly practical so far. :) Thanks again for that.

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[–] NewFatMike 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

No problem! And as far as leakiness goes:

Most tanks these days are vacuum fed, so there are a couple of things that can screw around with that and cause leaks/dry hits/general jankitude:

  • Seals get dislodged: When you disassemble a tank to refill it, check to see that where the coil and chimney seals properly and that no gaskets are loose.

  • Drawing too hard: This is a tough one for a lot of beginners because some, for whatever reason, feel the need to just suck the HELL out of what they're vaping on. It doesn't need a lot of effort, and it's going to be counterproductive because it's pulling excess liquid in. This causes a lot of "weak feeling" hits, spitting, gurgling, and so forth.

  • Airflow: Along with the above, having your airflow too tight on these tanks can pull in excess liquid. That said, wider airflow will help with eliminating excess liquid as well since it will wick more slowly.

If coil cost is getting to you, you may want to check out the Cisco Spec Nautilus Coil from Avid Vaper. $10 is a lot for a coil, but Cisco Spec stuff can easily last a month if you treat it right with cleaning. One of those has been on my list to pair with a Kabuki, and since it's only like 2mL and change you won't have to worry about wasting too much and Cisco Spec coils are easy as hell to clean.

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[–] Deadpoolsdrycleaner 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

A lot of it is really "personal taste". For example, I tend to vape between 60-75 watts depending on flavor and coil build. Whereas my girlfriend rarely moves above 15 watts. It also comes down to whether you're using RDA/RTA or a tank. Being able to go up to around 150 watts does give you more room to experiment and do different builds, but if you find your "sweet spot" around 30 or 40 watts then that's all you need.

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[–] johngaden 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

No useful information to contribute here. Just wanted to commend your use of the word grok.