[–] MrPim 0 points 47 points (+47|-0) ago 

4 hrs later OP has answered nothing. Mechanic confirmed.

[–] ScottRockview 0 points 16 points (+16|-0) ago 

He must be "waiting for a part.

[–] KILLtheRATS 0 points 6 points (+6|-0) ago 

"Been drunk for 3 days"

[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

Some people got to sleep. But don't worry, I offer speedy service no matter how long it takes ;)

[–] auto_turret 0 points 15 points (+15|-0) ago 

It goes 'wwwrrrrrrRRRRRR' whenever I accelerate while the ac/heat/vent system is running. When I turn it off, noise goes away. The noise pitch is proportional to the engine rpm.

Question is what the hell is going on and am I going to need to sell the farm to fix it?

[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 6 points (+6|-0) ago 

Your vehicle has an AC compressor run by the belt drive on the engine. The compressor speed increases proportional to the engine speed. Depending on how severe the noise, I'd say it's your compressor bearings.

[–] JoeMontana 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

I hate when that happens.

[–] QualityShitposter 0 points 6 points (+6|-0) ago 

Sounds like compressor bearings or belt slip. Tighten belt to see if noise goes away. If not, prepare your anus.

[–] this_beanewusername 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago  (edited ago)

Could be the blower motor, especially if it's when the fan is on (and not just the AC). If it's only when the AC is on, I would start checking out the compressor.

The belt runs at a static speed, no matter how fast the engine is going.

When you say "accelerate", do you mean actually "accelerate" (i.e. when vehicle speed is changing)? Say if you're at a steady 60 mph, does it still do this? This would rule out some kind of mechanical issue, like the acceleration of the entire car causing a spinning part to brush up against something (say a radiator fan or blower motor)

[–] Runaway-White-Slave 1 points 8 points (+9|-1) ago 

What's it like essentially working for an industry that went from making vehicles almost anyone could work on, to making shit only their trained technicians can figure out?

It's really obnoxious, unnecessary, and seems a bit greedy on the part of the auto industry. They're literally helping foster the codependency of the masses, almost as if they too are a part of some global (((Communist))) scheme to clip everyone's wings and leave us no choice but to fall in line. Certain, whether it's vehicle manufacturers, or John Deere tractor company are trying to claim everything they engineer is "intellectual property", and therefore only they should have the right to service it...... Really pisses me off.

[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 3 points (+3|-0) ago 

It's really beneficial to have manufacturer specific training, essentially. Especially with imports, as those share radical designs compared to domestics.

It's all a money making scheme in my mind. If no one but a trained tech can perform the work, no one but the company that employs the techs makes the money.

[–] [deleted] 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 


[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

Not exactly. Computer reflashes are uncommon at smaller shops, but I spent a little time at a GM dealer and BCM reflashes were almost an everyday thing.

[–] drstrangegov 0 points 3 points (+3|-0) ago 

not true. especially of gm. you cant even replace a heater dash module without the software to flash it on a newer vehicle.

[–] midnight_rider 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago  (edited ago)

You're right about the computer, however twin overhead cams with variable valve timing on two banks of a flat six isn't exactly an air cooled 911T. Many cars also need a computer purchase to reset the oil change light.

[–] Caesarkid1 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 

Power steering repairs on modern vehicles often involves the reprogramming of the component/computer so that they are in sync/aligned. This is just one issue. Another issue is anti-theft protection. Many vehicles if you simply unhook the battery will "forget" their memory and disassociate from the key. This means the dealer will have to reprogram it for you using a proprietary and/or very expensive tool to do so.

[–] ihaphleas 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

Part of the cause of this is government efficiency regulations. Also, most people want these more efficient vehicles since the price of gas is higher than it used to be. But you're right, cars used to be optimized for a different set of conditions ... one of those conditions being less expert service.

[–] Cat-hax 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

The reason why I wont be buying a new car ever, far to much shit going on, I just want simple.

[–] Erotic_Monkey 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

I upgoated almost everyone in this thread as it is nice to have a different topic on Voat to discuss, especially a thread that looks like it has ended up being quite helpful to a lot of people.

Strangely, the OP has not answered anyone, instead other goats are helping!

[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

I was sleeping, man. But don't worry, I'm going ham now

[–] Erotic_Monkey 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

What's ham?

[–] ShineShooter 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

How many zip ties do you use daily?

[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 6 points (+6|-0) ago 

Almost none on a customer vehicle. On my own? whooo.... that's a different story.

[–] GoogleHatesVoat 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 

Same here, not a mechanic by trade just grew up on a farming estate and you pick up things by doing them from helping. I live in a VERY wealthy area. MC12s, Veyrons, 10 cylinder BMWs, you name it. None of them can turn a wrench, even the poorer ones with C7s, CTS-Vs and Shelby Mustangs. Their cars are constantly down for some little thing that the dealer has to do for them. The ones with cars out of warranty get raped by indie shops and dealerships alike. Every repair is a nightmare and takes multiple trips to fix.

To my point. My wife grew up privileged white middle class in an upper class private school system. Her admittedly greatest past time is : Fixing our fleet of cars with me when they need a repair. She has her own tools and roll around cabinet to keep them in. She does research online, joins the car forums and price compares and uploads pictures of the ones the community wants to see a solution to as they are experiencing similar problems. She is a gorgeous, 36-24-34 fit blonde, that just loves to crawl under cars with me in her shop clothes and get dirty and fix something and fix it right. Unless it isn't a critical system and no one will ever see it, then she just grabs a handful of zip ties and a diagonal cutter. "That fan shroud is N.O.S. only and just one ear is broken off and I don't care so I'm drilling a hole and zip tying it. Fuck the stearership... We are not paying 500 for a new one."

Her current issue is a noisy electric motor that actuates the intake butterfly valve on her daily driver. Lexus wants $2,800 for that part number to be ordered and the noise gone. They keep telling her it isn't the only part she needs, the other is a new $600 alternator, because it failing is what killed the throttle motor. No, alternator tested fine it was the first thing she suspected.

To prove the culprit, she used a length of rubber tubing and snaked it around the engine compartment until she isolated the component and confirmed it by unplugging it and the noise disappeared. Disconnected battery to clear the throttle ECM memory and plugged motor back in. Reconnected negative lead to battery and turned key to run not start and the sound came on softly as soon as the key was positioned and became louder as the gas pedal was pressed slowly and by hand with the loud buzzing noise the throttle plate could be felt vibrating at the same frequency as the noise.

She did all that by visiting youtube, owners club sites and using google searches. She told Lexus this and they stopped trying to sell her an alternator with the throttle motor. "So do you want us to order it or not?" She said she would get back to them after she sees if Amazon has the part for less. She gets around the zip code location pricing scam they all have by just buying online either on amazon or other sites from dealerships with the lowest prices, like those in Atlanta etc.

I think part of her car hobby now is simply revenge on the dealerships for screwing her over all those years before she met me. Her Corvette and Cadillac experiences were epic, nearly all in bad ways. It's been great for me because two people working gets the job done 4 times as fast. That and she wears next to nothing while working because she gets sweaty and overheated fighting bolts and parts. I'm not going to tell her about shop overalls, that would ruin my fun!

[–] cosmic_climb 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

What is the nature of this AMA? Car problems or questions about being a mechanic? Well anyway...

2009 Honda Civic Auto, and when I shift into reverse, it really wants to move. Vibrates a lot, and when I take my foot off the brake, it takes off pretty quickly. It's my wife's car and she can't tell me when it started. She doesn't even know what the problem is.

[–] diodine 0 points 3 points (+3|-0) ago 

A lot of cars do that intentionally. It could be in theory the idle air solenoid (a bypass for the throttle that allows the computer to let more air in) but I wouldn't worry about it unless the computer detects this (it will) and alerts you.

[–] cosmic_climb 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

Hm I see. It vibrates as if I have the foot on both pedals. It seems like reverse idles higher than it usually does but it's been so long since I drove it (wife changed jobs) that I might be remembering wrong. Thanks to @WiLiV as well.

[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 

It vibrates when, when your foot is on the brake? Remember, the automatic transmission is backed by a torque converter that will keep the car still until a certain RPM is attained. A high idle will move the car faster even when your foot is off the gas.

[–] Orangishlemon 1 points 0 points (+1|-1) ago 

I think the problem is behind the wheel

[–] Erotic_Monkey 0 points 4 points (+4|-0) ago 

What is the best rust-proofing paint to use?


[–] WiLiV [S] 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 

If you're rustproofing on clean metal, Eastwoods works okay. For metals with surface rust already present, I have found "rust converters" like those made by Permatex to be okay, as long as you prep the metal sufficiently first.

[–] Erotic_Monkey 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 


[–] Chiefpacman 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 


[–] drstrangegov 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

ospho or corraseal. the convert the rust into a black primer.

[–] Erotic_Monkey 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

For any serious rust, I use a rust converter on first which seems similar to those products.

I was wondering more about what paint to apply which will provide a durable layer and prohibit rust?

[–] Naught405 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

engine enamel in a spray can. be careful, the solvent is serious.

[–] P8rtsUnkn0wn 0 points 3 points (+3|-0) ago 

Early 2000s caravan. Front passenger caliper isn't working. Replaced calipers and pads but that side still isn't working. Brake fluid level is good. Any idea?

[–] HAESSnowflake 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 

Did you change the flex hose on that side? If the hose is collapsed internally the caliper will not work.

[–] theoldguy 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

In my experience, the collapsed hose will apply the brake fine, as the brake line pressure on application is high enough to force its way through, but it won't release, causing a pull to one side and uneven wear. This also applies to the ungreased slides mentioned below.

[–] P8rtsUnkn0wn 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

Flex hose should be fine. If it was pinched, would I had been able to bleed that side?

[–] Cat-hax 0 points 0 points (+0|-0) ago 

I had this problem, I thought it was the caliper so I replaced them, then the left side break locked up coming to a slow stop at a toll booth, I said fuck that and replaced both lines, breaks work perfectly now, after spending just about 1000$ on replacing the calipers twice over a 15$ line. Sigh.

[–] [deleted] 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 


[–] P8rtsUnkn0wn 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

...I've done pads on this a few times now & I don't think that applies to this vehicle. Thanks for the thought though!

[–] [deleted] 0 points 2 points (+2|-0) ago 


[–] P8rtsUnkn0wn 0 points 1 points (+1|-0) ago 

I did rear springs, pads, and rear cylinders the same time as the calipers. I do recall a set being worse off than the other...it's why I did new cylinders. It's a place to start for sure. Thanks!

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